Here's a fuss-free recipe for those duck legs you always hesitate to mess with. Pile the lean legs and thighs into a pot with a few staple ingredients and turn on the stove. The result is magnificent! The number of legs is contingent on species and size; use your own judgment to plan for four servings.

Ingredients:

24 wild duck hindquarters

1⁄2 cup kalamata olives

1 bay leaf

6 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

1⁄2 cup picholine olives

14-ounce can peeled tomatoes, with juice

1⁄2 tsp. crushed red pepper

2 large thyme sprigs

1. Lay the duck quarters in a large heavy-duty pot or Dutch oven. Add the remaining ingredients, and salt and pepper to taste. Place the pot over medium-high heat until bubbling. Reduce the heat to low and cover.

2. Monitor the pot occasionally; you want a slow, steady simmer. If the liquid seems insubstantial (the legs should be sort of wading in it), add some chicken stock or water. Start checking after about 1 1⁄2 hours. The legs are done when the meat is very tender and pulls away from the bone with ease.

3. When the duck legs are ready, remove them from the pot with tongs and set aside. Turn the heat to medium-high and continue to cook the sauce until thickened (5–10 minutes). Taste and correct the seasoning as needed. If desired, you can pull the meat from the bones, return it to the sauce until heated, and serve over pasta. Or serve the legs with the sauce over them.